I can still picture being in my bathroom, staring at two little glass dropper bottles. One contained a new supply of Vitamin C. The other had niacinamide serum. I wanted the glow from both, but I was hesitant. For years, skincare websites and beauty magazines have been telling people not to combine these two products because it makes their face melt or it does nothing. If you’ve ever wondered, can you mix vitamin C and niacinamide together, you’re not alone.
I have personally tried it out on my own skin. I did make a mess of my skin barrier when I did it so quickly the first time. I found out the hard way that there is a right and a wrong way to cosmetic chemistry.
It is okay to combine Vitamin C and niacinamide.
The confusion is due to old 1960’s research that suggested otherwise. The materials used in that time were not stabilized and heated to very high temperatures. Today’s skin care products will not change if the room temperature is maintained. You won’t trigger a harmful chemical reaction on your face.
Together these two actives offer the maximum protection against damage to the skin from the environment. It only takes a knowledge of pH levels and the proper layering sequence. This explains can you mix vitamin C and niacinamide together safely and effectively.
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The Origin of the Nicotinic Acid Myth
It’s time to examine the old science to gain insight into the fear. In the 1960s, researchers found it was possible to combine pure L-ascorbic acid with niacinamide. They put this mixture under high temperature condition.
At those high temps the two chemicals produced a by-product called nicotinic acid. Vasodilation is caused by nicotinic acid. That’s because it dilates blood vessels that are lying in the skin. This makes the skin on the face red, hot and stinging.
This study was read and people panicked. Brands advised consumers to separating ingredients.
That old study didn’t take into account chemical thermodynamics. Your bathroom doesn’t get hot enough to make that chemical change. The skin’s natural temperature is still below the threshold to heat it. The two ingredients will not react in any dangerous way if used together, unless you’re planning to boil your face.
Why You Should Use Both Ingredients
Vitamin C fights skin aging and niacinamide fights hyperpigmentation. This approach to skin health can be duplicated by using them in the same routine.
Vitamin C is an effective antioxidant. It helps to neutralize free radicals created by the UV radiation and urban pollution. It also has tyrosinase inhibiting activity. Tyrosinase is an enzyme your skin utilizes to make melanin. Vitamin C prevents the formation of dark spots by inhibiting that enzyme. It also stimulates the production of fresh collagen in the dermis of your skin.
Niacinamide acts as a skin barrier builder. It increases the production of ceramide in the Stratum corneum. Another benefit of niacinamide is that it prevents the transfer of melanin. Niacinamide blocks movement of existing pigment to the surface of your skin while Vitamin C inhibits pigment production.
The pH Problem with Pure L-Ascorbic Acid
The ingredients don’t balance out, but they like different environments. This is the area in which most people go wrong.
Acidity is measured by the pH scale used by the formulators. Pure Vitamin C must be in an extremely acidic environment to permeate the skin. Niacinamide likes to be in a quiet and neutral environment.
Ingredient pH Preferences
| Skincare Active | Ideal pH Level |
|---|---|
| L-Ascorbic Acid | 2.5 to 3.5 |
| Niacinamide | 5.0 to 7.0 |
The pH of both liquids is changed when mixed in the hand. The Vitamin C is less acidic. The niacinamide becomes more acidic. This decreases the absorbability of the L-ascorbic acid.
Looks like you have to avoid this problem with sequential layering.
How to Layer Vitamin C and Niacinamide
Your skincare products will be held together in terms of the integrity of their pH when applied in the right order. Do this regimen for optimal results.
- Wash your face with a mild, pH balanced cleanser.
- Use Vitamin C serum on bare skin.
- Allow the serum to absorb for 1-2 minutes.
- Put on niacinamide serum or cream.
- Seal the actives in using a ceramide moisturizer.
- Finish with an all-purpose sunscreen.
If you wait a whole minute, it is a big difference. I used to apply both serums in succession. The products pill and rolled off my face in tiny white flakes due to the friction and the mixed textures. Allow the acidic layer of L-ascorbic acid to penetrate the stratum corneum before applying the neutral niacinamide layer.
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The Derivative Loophole for Formulators
The pH clash is only applicable to pure L-ascorbic acid. The skincare market went beyond depending on such an unstable compound.
Vitamin C derivatives are now used by cosmetic chemists. These are stable compounds which do not suffer from the acidity problem. The neutral pH of 6.0 to 7.0 is ideal for the formulation of ingredients such as Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate and THD Ascorbate.
This is the optimal pH level for niacinamide.
When purchasing one serum that includes both Vitamin C and niacinamide, consult the ingredients. It is likely that the brand employed a stable derivative. Your brightening is achieved with both ingredients, without the wait time or irritation.
This is a good choice for both estheticians and clinical practitioners creating a regimen for sensitive clients. L-ascorbic acid is a burning agent for sensitive skin. A blended derivative serum is an antioxidant serum without any acidity.
Global Climate and Skincare Adjustments
The application of these ingredients is depended on the local environment. Shaving cream will dry out your face in a frozen mountain town.
High UV Index Regions
In Australia or at high altitudes, intense oxidative stress is experienced by humans. Mornings are when this combination is a must for sun protection. The antioxidants in Vitamin C bind to the free radicals which pass through your sunscreen.
Humid Environments
For those in Southeast Asian or the Southern part of the United States, thick creams trap the sweat and lead to acne. Use water-based serums for both steps. A liquid L-ascorbic acid and a light 5 percent niacinamide gel keeps pores clear.
Cold and Dry Climates
Northern Europe or Canada destroys skin barrier in winter season. Vitamin C is astringent, causing dry skin to feel tighter. In these weather zones, avoid using a niacinamide liquid serum. Instead, purchase a rich lipid moisturizing cream that has niacinamide. This protects the acid in Vitamin C with a thick layer of protective fat.
Common Mistakes to Avoid
Individuals spend money and harm to their skin by not following the rules of application. Avoid these errors.
Mixing Raw Powders
Other brands offer raw L-ascorbic acid powder and raw niacinamide powder. They instruct you to add water to them in your hand. Never do this. There’s no way to regulate the pH or concentration in your bath. You’ll either create something that isn’t needed or you’ll burn your skin with a spike of acid.
Ignoring the Smell
L-ascorbic acid readily oxidizes. It has a dark orange coloration and when it spoils, it has a coppery odor. Oxidized Vitamin C is a cause of blackheads and inflammation. Dispose of the bottle. Niacinamide is stable over long periods of years, while pure Vitamin C is unstable.
Applying on Broken Skin
If you’re in an active flare up of eczema, or have poor skin barrier function, discontinue Vitamin C use because acidic compounds on broken skin will ignite the inflammation. This causes a temporary nicotinic acid flush. Use simple niacinamide and ceramides as your barrier.
Pricing and Product Selection
There is a price for good formulations. Vitamin C is well known to be a challenging ingredient to stabilize in a water based system.
Low-cost, mass-produced drugs in the low dollar range at a drugstore are frequently made from low-quality derivatives in silicone bases. They are on the surface of the skin and are greasy to the touch.
The range of price for clinical grade L-ascorbic acid serums is $80 to $150. These include high-tech delivery options. They use the suspension of the acid in ferulic acid and Vitamin E to ensure penetration.
Niacinamide is an inexpensive stable component. Not all niacinamide serums cost $100. A reputable brand will also do just as much when the price tag on the bottle is $15 dollars. Invest in the Vitamin C step!
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If you’re looking for medical grade products, look for local board-certified dermatology clinics. Many clinics have special lines that are made to be pH friendly.
People Also Ask
What Goes First, Vitamin C or Niacinamide?
Vitamin C is on the list first. L-ascorbic acid needs to be in a low pH to penetrate to skin. If applied to bare skin, it will be better absorbed. On second, Niacinamide has a higher neutral pH.
How Long Should I Wait Between Applying Vitamin C and Niacinamide?
Wait 1-2 minutes. This allows the first serum to dry and penetrate to the epidermis. If it is done too quickly, the second product pill and flakes off.
Will Mixing Vitamin C and Niacinamide Cause Redness?
No, it does not cause any redness on healthy skin. The old worry of a nicotinic acid flush is for people that can only be reached in severe heat settings, which aren’t found in normal skincare regimens. If the skin barrier is damaged, though, an acidic Vitamin C would hurt.
Can I Mix the Raw Powders in My Hand?
Never combine raw skin powders. Without cosmetic chemistry tools, it is not possible to control the pH level and/or the concentration. There is a danger of setting your skin on fire or making the ingredients ineffective.
Should I Use Vitamin C and Niacinamide in the Morning or at Night?
Take both in the morning. They are mainly tasked with the responsibility of shielding the skin from UV rays and pollution. When you apply them underneath your daily sunscreen, they’re going to be most effective at providing antioxidants.
Is This Combination Safe for Sensitive Skin?
It can be too harsh for reactive skin types if you use pure L-ascorbic acid. Rosacea or sensitive skin sufferers should opt for a Vitamin C derivative like THD Ascorbate. This offers both benefits, without the acid irritation.
Does Niacinamide Cancel Out Vitamin C?
Niacinamide will not neutralize Vitamin C. They act via different biological mechanisms. Vitamin C prevents melanin production. Niacinamide prevents melanin transfer. Together, these will speed up the fading of dark spots.
Your Next Steps
Put an end to outdated skin care myths. Decades ago the cosmetic chemistry industry solved the nicotinic acid problem.
Choose a stable Vitamin C serum in dark-colored glass. Choose a basic niacinamide serum that is not too costly. Wash your face, rub in the acid, massage it in for a minute, massage in the niacinamide and add the sunscreen to finish. Your dark spots will fade, your skin texture will smoothen out and your morning routine will be a lot easier.
