Hyaluronic Acid: The Complete Guide to the Moisture Magnet Your Skin Already Makes
The first time I read the word “acid” on a skin care label I remembered it. I hesitated. I had only the idea of burning or peeling from the word. I thought there will be a severe chemical reaction and my face will be red. Rather the liquid was thick water. It was cooling. It was soothing. This is the first lesson I learned about skin care, don’t all acids want to break down your skin? If you’ve ever wondered what is hyaluronic acid and how does it work, you’re not alone.
Hyaluronic acid is NOT an exfoliant! It’s a sugar molecule. It’s already in your body. It’s in your eyes, joints and your skin. It lubricates and provides support. Biologists call it a glycosaminoglycan. In the beauty world we know it as a moisture magnet, which explains what is hyaluronic acid and how does it work.
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How Hyaluronic Acid Functions
It all comes down to one word: humectant. Water attractant is a substance that is humectant. Hyaluronic acid is well known for its ability to retain 1,000 times its weight in water. Imagine a nature sponge. It is present in the space between your skin cells (extracellular matrix). Maintains moisture and plumpness in that area.
When applied topically, it soaks up moisture. It can draw water out of the air or deep into your skin. That is their first error. Putting it on dry skin in a dry climate, the molecule won’t be able to “steal” any water. It begins to draw the water from your body instead. This causes you to feel tight and dry as soon as you put it on.
The Problem with Molecular Weight
There may be a $10 bottle of serum and a $150 bottle and you may wonder what is the difference. At times it is the Dalton that matters. The unit in which molecules weight is measured.
The large molecules are attached to the surface. They form a film which prevents water evaporation. This is known as Transepidermal Water Loss Prevention (TEWL). The small molecules penetrate into the epidermis.
| Molecule Size | Weight (Daltons) | Primary Function |
|---|---|---|
| High | 1,500+ kDa | Surface hydration |
| Medium | 800 – 1,000 kDa | Barrier support |
| Low | 50 kDa | Deep plumping |
Most of the low cost serums use high molecular weight. It is nice for 5 minutes, and then goes away. The best products are made with a mixture. They are dual surface and deep layer hydrators.
Applying Hyaluronic Acid the Right Way
For years, I’ve been doing it the wrong way. I would pat the serum onto my face after drying my face with a towel. My skin was so dry it was like parchment. The following is a routine that works:
- Wash your face with a mild soap.
- Keep skin moist. Do not use a towel.
- Use 3 drops of hyaluronic acid.
- Mash it together until the mixture becomes sticky.
- Immediately apply a moisturizer or oil.
The last is the essential step. The acid must be closed in a seal. Without a cream on top, the water that the acid just retrieved will go up the walls and into the room. No benefits at all are lost.
The Humectant Paradox in Dry Climates
Be careful if you live in Arizona, Nevada or a heated apartment in the winter. If the humidity level in the air is less than the humidity level in your skin, hyaluronic acid can work against you. It becomes a conduit to send water out of your body.
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In these instances, glycerin may be more effective. Or, you will need to have a really thick occlusion cream on top of your serum. I found this out when I was on a trip to the mountains, the hard way. In the winter months, the skin flakes due to the dry air.
Hyaluronic Acid in the Body and Joints
We speak so much about faces, but this molecule does heavy lifting elsewhere. It is a component of synovial fluid in your joints. It prevents bones from rubbing against each other. For individuals suffering from Osteoarthritis, doctors go to the trouble of inserting it directly into the knees through a procedure known as viscosupplementation.
It also has a healing effect on wounds. The body produces higher concentrations of HA when you are cut. It encourages cells to create additional blood vessels. It controls the inflammation and allows the skin to heal itself. That is why it is so favored following laser therapy or microneedling. It speeds up the repair process.
How Hyaluronic Acid Is Manufactured
Historically, the use of a rooster’s comb for harvesting HA has been common. That is rare now. Today’s majority of HAs are made by bacterial fermentation. There are special strains of bacteria such as Streptococcus that are used in a laboratory by scientists. They feed on the bacteria and then collect the HA that the bacteria make.
This technique is Vegan. It also allows for much higher purity. This is a very important step in the process for B2B suppliers and manufacturers to form “cross-linked” HA. The basis of dermal fillers is the cross-linking. If not, your body would dissolve an injection in a few days. Ties cross link the molecules, which means that the molecules do not move back out of your cheeks or lips and remain there for a few months.
Serums versus Injectable Fillers
A serum will not substitute for a filler. I do see ads touting a “filler in a bottle,” but that can’t happen. A serum will act on the outer layer (epidermis). A filler is injected into the dermis, and sometimes all the way down to the bone.
| Feature | Topical Serum | Dermal Filler |
|---|---|---|
| Depth | Surface level | Deep tissue |
| Duration | Hours | 6–18 months |
| Pain | None | Moderate |
| Best For | Pores and lines | Volume and structure |
An injection is necessary if you’re looking to correct a hollow under the eye or if your lips are thin. Some popular brands include Juvederm and Restylane. These are made with cross linked HA. A good thing about fillers of HA is that they are reversible. If something goes wrong or doesn’t look the way you want, the filler can be dissolved with an enzyme called hyaluronidase that doctors use.
Costs and Professional Providers
The cost of HA treatments are extremely different from one region to another. A single syringe of filler in the United States ranges just over $600 to $1,000. In the UK, you might pay £300 to £600. Serums are available at either a drugstore for $10 or a high-end clinic for $200.
Always check with your provider. Anyone can take a weekend course where they can begin to inject in some areas. That is dangerous. You should find board certified dermatologists or plastic surgeons. Request if they have hyaluronidase available. If they don’t know what it is, walk away.
Common Mistakes and Side Effects
Breakouts are the most prevalent side effect, but not a rash. Low molecular weight HA is found to go too deep by some people, carrying along with it irritants. For sensitive skin, go for high molecular weight.
Other mistakes include:
- Using too much. Use 3 drops for the entire face.
- Using it on dry skin.
- Hoping that it will cure them. It is only the fine lines from dehydration that will be plumped.
- Purchasing alcohol beverages with a high alcohol level. The HA is looking to rehydrate the skin, but alcohol is looking to dry the skin. They cancel out.
What to Look for on the Label
Check the ingredients. Often “Sodium Hyaluronate” is used as an alternative term for “Hyaluronic Acid.” This is a salt of the molecule. Stability is greater, and its molecular size tends to be smaller. A wonderful addition as an ingredient.
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Search for “multi-molecular” formulas. These offer you the greatest of both worlds. Don’t use products that list the HA as the last ingredient. It should be placed at the beginning of the list of ingredients to be effective.
Is It Safe for Everyone
Yes. HA is quite easy to use, and nearly anyone can use it. It’s very rare for people to have allergic reactions, as it’s something our bodies make naturally. It will not clog pores. Does not irritate oily, dry or combination skin.
If you have oily skin, you can use a light HA serum as your only moisturizer. In the case of dry skin, it needs to be used as a bottom layer beneath a more substantial base. It’s one of the few ingredients which is compatible with all of the others! No problems with using it with Retinol, Vitamin C, and exfoliating acids.
Frequently Asked Questions
So, Is HA Truly an Acid?
In chemical terms it is acidic due to its pH but it isn’t chemically acidic. It won’t chafe skin or cause peeling. It is a “water loving” sugar.
Will It Work in Conjunction with Retinol?
Yes. Actually, it’s better to use them together. Retinol may dry out skin a great deal. Using HA before or after can help to soothe and keep skin feeling comfortable.
Why Does My Skin Feel Sticky After I Put It On?
Stickiness is typically caused by excess or a high molecular weight. Avoid using as much on wetter skin. If it remains sticky, use moisturizer right away to make it smooth.
Is HA Vegan?
Most of the current versions are vegan. They are created in a lab using fermentation by bacteria and not from animal tissues. If in doubt, look for a vegan logo on the packaging.
How Long Before the Results Are Seen?
You can see it immediately if it’s on the surface and hydrated. In as few as minutes, your skin will look plump and shiny, and in two to four weeks, the barrier will be repaired over the long haul.
Is This Effective in Treating Acne?
It isn’t intended to treat acne. But many of the acne drugs such as benzoyl peroxide cause dry skin. HA is able to replenish that moisture without the addition of oil, making healing easier.
Is There Any Contraindication for It to Be Used Around the Eyes?
Yes. Great for eye skin. It is useful for filling in a cakey look in concealer as there are very fine dehydration lines.
Choosing the Best Path
The decision of how to incorporate HA depends on what one is trying to achieve. If you are only looking after your skin for use in photos, and to make it feel less tight, then a $20 serum will suffice. When you are having problems with a loss of volume around the mouth and deep folds, consult your doctor about fillers.
I’ve observed that a combination of both works best. In the morning, I apply a multi-weight serum to my wet face. It maintains freshness of my face. This is the easiest and most common addition to the routine for most of us to get rid of dull, tired skin. Keep in mind the water. Hyaluronic acid is simply a sticky film without water. Water is the best fluid which we have to help us maintain our hydration.
